Case LED

On Thu, 07 Jun 2007 03:06:11 GMT, "Travis King"
<Anonymous.DeleteThis@none.com> wrote:

>"Travis King" <Anonymous.DeleteThis@none.com> wrote in message

>> I contacted the company a few days ago, and I just got a response today
>> that they will offer me a $6 replacement string of LEDs. I will have to
>> replace all the LEDs, but this will be easier than trying to find one that
>> works Before I officially order a replacement, I'm going to make sure
>> there's not a bad connection like you said. Thanks.

>Checked the wiring. Looked good. Even took the front panel off to look at
>the wiring going to the LEDs. That looked fine also. Turned on the
>computer, and now that LED is completely dead. On occasion, I'll see just
>the faintest blue, but otherwise, it's dead.


If an LED fails through only moderate overcurrent/heat, it
may tend to still (barely) dimly glow. It is unusual to
have it flicker though, that was one of the reasons I
wondered about the wiring. If/when it breaks it tends to do
so right at where the wire is soldered to the LED lead
(unless there was some overt accident like it getting caught
in a fan) and if that is covered in heatshrink tubing it may
not be obvious with a visual inspection. Wiggling the wire
around can sometimes find this fault or checking continuity
between the other end of the wire and the LED lead itself
(easiest to take a multimeter needle probe which pierces a
small enough hole that it's essentially self-closing after
the needle is withdrawn.

$6 seems very reasonable to replace the whole set (assuming
they don't gouge you on S/H charges), now just hope the
replacement isn't subject to same failure within the life of
the system. At least with the replacement set you
"hopefully" have all same LEDs and if one fails in the
future you have spares. If another fails I suggest doing
what I'd mentioned previously, to examine the connector and
determine what resistor value they are using and replace
that with a somewhat higher value, or add this resistor in
series with the positive power lead while leaving the
original in place, which of course means choosing a much
lower value of resistor. As mentioned in one of my past
posts, 20mA (0.02A in equation below) or a little less is a
typical conservative current to allow, then depending on
whether the LEDs are in parallel or series themselves you
can Google for an LED resistor calculator which will
elaborate on the basic theme of;

[ (PSU voltage supplied by connector, 5 or 12V) - [ (# of
LEDs in series) * (Forward Voltage Drop per LED) ] ] /
0.02A = n Ohms resistor per group of LEDs

Per group of LEDs means it might be one resistor for the
whole thing, one per LED, or one per pair of LEDs. Noting
the value of the original resistor(s) is a good start.
 >> Stay informed about: Case LED 

"kony" <spam.RemoveThis@spam.com> wrote in message
news:tf6f63htv35l9dsgrbicq002fe7382maad@4ax.com...
> On Thu, 07 Jun 2007 03:06:11 GMT, "Travis King"
> <Anonymous.RemoveThis@none.com> wrote:
>
>>"Travis King" <Anonymous.RemoveThis@none.com> wrote in message
>
>>> I contacted the company a few days ago, and I just got a response today
>>> that they will offer me a $6 replacement string of LEDs. I will have to
>>> replace all the LEDs, but this will be easier than trying to find one
>>> that
>>> works Before I officially order a replacement, I'm going to make sure
>>> there's not a bad connection like you said. Thanks.
>
>>Checked the wiring. Looked good. Even took the front panel off to look
>>at
>>the wiring going to the LEDs. That looked fine also. Turned on the
>>computer, and now that LED is completely dead. On occasion, I'll see just
>>the faintest blue, but otherwise, it's dead.
>
>
> If an LED fails through only moderate overcurrent/heat, it
> may tend to still (barely) dimly glow. It is unusual to
> have it flicker though, that was one of the reasons I
> wondered about the wiring. If/when it breaks it tends to do
> so right at where the wire is soldered to the LED lead
> (unless there was some overt accident like it getting caught
> in a fan) and if that is covered in heatshrink tubing it may
> not be obvious with a visual inspection. Wiggling the wire
> around can sometimes find this fault or checking continuity
> between the other end of the wire and the LED lead itself
> (easiest to take a multimeter needle probe which pierces a
> small enough hole that it's essentially self-closing after
> the needle is withdrawn.
>
> $6 seems very reasonable to replace the whole set (assuming
> they don't gouge you on S/H charges), now just hope the
> replacement isn't subject to same failure within the life of
> the system. At least with the replacement set you
> "hopefully" have all same LEDs and if one fails in the
> future you have spares. If another fails I suggest doing
> what I'd mentioned previously, to examine the connector and
> determine what resistor value they are using and replace
> that with a somewhat higher value, or add this resistor in
> series with the positive power lead while leaving the
> original in place, which of course means choosing a much
> lower value of resistor. As mentioned in one of my past
> posts, 20mA (0.02A in equation below) or a little less is a
> typical conservative current to allow, then depending on
> whether the LEDs are in parallel or series themselves you
> can Google for an LED resistor calculator which will
> elaborate on the basic theme of;
>
> [ (PSU voltage supplied by connector, 5 or 12V) - [ (# of
> LEDs in series) * (Forward Voltage Drop per LED) ] ] /
> 0.02A = n Ohms resistor per group of LEDs
>
> Per group of LEDs means it might be one resistor for the
> whole thing, one per LED, or one per pair of LEDs. Noting
> the value of the original resistor(s) is a good start.

Apevia said that the $6 includes the shipping charge.
 >> Stay informed about: Case LED 

Travis King wrote:
> "kony" <spam.TakeThisOut@spam.com> wrote in message
> news:tf6f63htv35l9dsgrbicq002fe7382maad@4ax.com...
> > On Thu, 07 Jun 2007 03:06:11 GMT, "Travis King"
> > <Anonymous.TakeThisOut@none.com> wrote:
> >
> > > "Travis King" <Anonymous.TakeThisOut@none.com> wrote in message
> >
> > > > I contacted the company a few days ago, and I just got a
> > > > response today that they will offer me a $6 replacement string
> > > > of LEDs. I will have to replace all the LEDs, but this will be
> > > > easier than trying to find one that
> > > > works Before I officially order a replacement, I'm going to
> > > > make sure there's not a bad connection like you said. Thanks.
> >
> > > Checked the wiring. Looked good. Even took the front panel off
> > > to look at
> > > the wiring going to the LEDs. That looked fine also. Turned on
> > > the computer, and now that LED is completely dead. On occasion,
> > > I'll see just the faintest blue, but otherwise, it's dead.
> >
> >
> > If an LED fails through only moderate overcurrent/heat, it
> > may tend to still (barely) dimly glow. It is unusual to
> > have it flicker though, that was one of the reasons I
> > wondered about the wiring. If/when it breaks it tends to do
> > so right at where the wire is soldered to the LED lead
> > (unless there was some overt accident like it getting caught
> > in a fan) and if that is covered in heatshrink tubing it may
> > not be obvious with a visual inspection. Wiggling the wire
> > around can sometimes find this fault or checking continuity
> > between the other end of the wire and the LED lead itself
> > (easiest to take a multimeter needle probe which pierces a
> > small enough hole that it's essentially self-closing after
> > the needle is withdrawn.
> >
> > $6 seems very reasonable to replace the whole set (assuming
> > they don't gouge you on S/H charges), now just hope the
> > replacement isn't subject to same failure within the life of
> > the system. At least with the replacement set you
> > "hopefully" have all same LEDs and if one fails in the
> > future you have spares. If another fails I suggest doing
> > what I'd mentioned previously, to examine the connector and
> > determine what resistor value they are using and replace
> > that with a somewhat higher value, or add this resistor in
> > series with the positive power lead while leaving the
> > original in place, which of course means choosing a much
> > lower value of resistor. As mentioned in one of my past
> > posts, 20mA (0.02A in equation below) or a little less is a
> > typical conservative current to allow, then depending on
> > whether the LEDs are in parallel or series themselves you
> > can Google for an LED resistor calculator which will
> > elaborate on the basic theme of;
> >
> > [ (PSU voltage supplied by connector, 5 or 12V) - [ (# of
> > LEDs in series) * (Forward Voltage Drop per LED) ] ] /
> > 0.02A = n Ohms resistor per group of LEDs
> >
> > Per group of LEDs means it might be one resistor for the
> > whole thing, one per LED, or one per pair of LEDs. Noting
> > the value of the original resistor(s) is a good start.
>
> Apevia said that the $6 includes the shipping charge.

Get two.
--
Shaun.
 >> Stay informed about: Case LED 

"~misfit~" <misfit61nz.TakeThisOut@woohoo.com.au> wrote in message
news:4669102a@news2.actrix.gen.nz...
> Travis King wrote:
>> "kony" <spam.TakeThisOut@spam.com> wrote in message
>> news:tf6f63htv35l9dsgrbicq002fe7382maad@4ax.com...
>> > On Thu, 07 Jun 2007 03:06:11 GMT, "Travis King"
>> > <Anonymous.TakeThisOut@none.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > > "Travis King" <Anonymous.TakeThisOut@none.com> wrote in message
>> >
>> > > > I contacted the company a few days ago, and I just got a
>> > > > response today that they will offer me a $6 replacement string
>> > > > of LEDs. I will have to replace all the LEDs, but this will be
>> > > > easier than trying to find one that
>> > > > works Before I officially order a replacement, I'm going to
>> > > > make sure there's not a bad connection like you said. Thanks.
>> >
>> > > Checked the wiring. Looked good. Even took the front panel off
>> > > to look at
>> > > the wiring going to the LEDs. That looked fine also. Turned on
>> > > the computer, and now that LED is completely dead. On occasion,
>> > > I'll see just the faintest blue, but otherwise, it's dead.
>> >
>> >
>> > If an LED fails through only moderate overcurrent/heat, it
>> > may tend to still (barely) dimly glow. It is unusual to
>> > have it flicker though, that was one of the reasons I
>> > wondered about the wiring. If/when it breaks it tends to do
>> > so right at where the wire is soldered to the LED lead
>> > (unless there was some overt accident like it getting caught
>> > in a fan) and if that is covered in heatshrink tubing it may
>> > not be obvious with a visual inspection. Wiggling the wire
>> > around can sometimes find this fault or checking continuity
>> > between the other end of the wire and the LED lead itself
>> > (easiest to take a multimeter needle probe which pierces a
>> > small enough hole that it's essentially self-closing after
>> > the needle is withdrawn.
>> >
>> > $6 seems very reasonable to replace the whole set (assuming
>> > they don't gouge you on S/H charges), now just hope the
>> > replacement isn't subject to same failure within the life of
>> > the system. At least with the replacement set you
>> > "hopefully" have all same LEDs and if one fails in the
>> > future you have spares. If another fails I suggest doing
>> > what I'd mentioned previously, to examine the connector and
>> > determine what resistor value they are using and replace
>> > that with a somewhat higher value, or add this resistor in
>> > series with the positive power lead while leaving the
>> > original in place, which of course means choosing a much
>> > lower value of resistor. As mentioned in one of my past
>> > posts, 20mA (0.02A in equation below) or a little less is a
>> > typical conservative current to allow, then depending on
>> > whether the LEDs are in parallel or series themselves you
>> > can Google for an LED resistor calculator which will
>> > elaborate on the basic theme of;
>> >
>> > [ (PSU voltage supplied by connector, 5 or 12V) - [ (# of
>> > LEDs in series) * (Forward Voltage Drop per LED) ] ] /
>> > 0.02A = n Ohms resistor per group of LEDs
>> >
>> > Per group of LEDs means it might be one resistor for the
>> > whole thing, one per LED, or one per pair of LEDs. Noting
>> > the value of the original resistor(s) is a good start.
>>
>> Apevia said that the $6 includes the shipping charge.
>
> Get two.
> --
> Shaun.
>

The LEDs will come with both sides, so that would essentially be two. I'll
only need to replace one side. There are four LEDs on each side of the
case, and each set of four LEDs are connected to one wire that plugs into
the 4-pin molex. This means there will be two seperate strings of LEDs.
 >> Stay informed about: Case LED 

Travis King wrote:
> "~misfit~" <misfit61nz.TakeThisOut@woohoo.com.au> wrote in message
> news:4669102a@news2.actrix.gen.nz...
> > Travis King wrote:
> > > "kony" <spam.TakeThisOut@spam.com> wrote in message
> > > news:tf6f63htv35l9dsgrbicq002fe7382maad@4ax.com...
> > > > On Thu, 07 Jun 2007 03:06:11 GMT, "Travis King"
> > > > <Anonymous.TakeThisOut@none.com> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > "Travis King" <Anonymous.TakeThisOut@none.com> wrote in message
> > > >
> > > > > > I contacted the company a few days ago, and I just got a
> > > > > > response today that they will offer me a $6 replacement
> > > > > > string of LEDs. I will have to replace all the LEDs, but
> > > > > > this will be easier than trying to find one that
> > > > > > works Before I officially order a replacement, I'm going to
> > > > > > make sure there's not a bad connection like you said. Thanks.
> > > >
> > > > > Checked the wiring. Looked good. Even took the front panel
> > > > > off to look at
> > > > > the wiring going to the LEDs. That looked fine also. Turned
> > > > > on the computer, and now that LED is completely dead. On
> > > > > occasion, I'll see just the faintest blue, but otherwise,
> > > > > it's dead.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > If an LED fails through only moderate overcurrent/heat, it
> > > > may tend to still (barely) dimly glow. It is unusual to
> > > > have it flicker though, that was one of the reasons I
> > > > wondered about the wiring. If/when it breaks it tends to do
> > > > so right at where the wire is soldered to the LED lead
> > > > (unless there was some overt accident like it getting caught
> > > > in a fan) and if that is covered in heatshrink tubing it may
> > > > not be obvious with a visual inspection. Wiggling the wire
> > > > around can sometimes find this fault or checking continuity
> > > > between the other end of the wire and the LED lead itself
> > > > (easiest to take a multimeter needle probe which pierces a
> > > > small enough hole that it's essentially self-closing after
> > > > the needle is withdrawn.
> > > >
> > > > $6 seems very reasonable to replace the whole set (assuming
> > > > they don't gouge you on S/H charges), now just hope the
> > > > replacement isn't subject to same failure within the life of
> > > > the system. At least with the replacement set you
> > > > "hopefully" have all same LEDs and if one fails in the
> > > > future you have spares. If another fails I suggest doing
> > > > what I'd mentioned previously, to examine the connector and
> > > > determine what resistor value they are using and replace
> > > > that with a somewhat higher value, or add this resistor in
> > > > series with the positive power lead while leaving the
> > > > original in place, which of course means choosing a much
> > > > lower value of resistor. As mentioned in one of my past
> > > > posts, 20mA (0.02A in equation below) or a little less is a
> > > > typical conservative current to allow, then depending on
> > > > whether the LEDs are in parallel or series themselves you
> > > > can Google for an LED resistor calculator which will
> > > > elaborate on the basic theme of;
> > > >
> > > > [ (PSU voltage supplied by connector, 5 or 12V) - [ (# of
> > > > LEDs in series) * (Forward Voltage Drop per LED) ] ] /
> > > > 0.02A = n Ohms resistor per group of LEDs
> > > >
> > > > Per group of LEDs means it might be one resistor for the
> > > > whole thing, one per LED, or one per pair of LEDs. Noting
> > > > the value of the original resistor(s) is a good start.
> > >
> > > Apevia said that the $6 includes the shipping charge.
> >
> > Get two.
> > --
> > Shaun.
> >
>
> The LEDs will come with both sides, so that would essentially be two.
> I'll only need to replace one side. There are four LEDs on each side
> of the case, and each set of four LEDs are connected to one wire that
> plugs into the 4-pin molex. This means there will be two seperate
> strings of LEDs.

Yeah yeah, I got all that.

I meant, get two lots. At that price, and with a history of failure, it
might be a good idea.
--
Shaun.
 >> Stay informed about: Case LED 

On Sat, 9 Jun 2007 22:27:22 +1200, "~misfit~"
<misfit61nz DeleteThis @woohoo.com.au> wrote:


>> The LEDs will come with both sides, so that would essentially be two.
>> I'll only need to replace one side. There are four LEDs on each side
>> of the case, and each set of four LEDs are connected to one wire that
>> plugs into the 4-pin molex. This means there will be two seperate
>> strings of LEDs.
>
>Yeah yeah, I got all that.
>
>I meant, get two lots. At that price, and with a history of failure, it
>might be a good idea.


$6 delivered is a great price for the set, but I'd still
think about adding a series resistor either way, or swapping
out the original, as 4+ ultrabright LEDs is a lot of light
which might look cool initially but you get used to the
effect.
 >> Stay informed about: Case LED 

"kony" <spam.TakeThisOut@spam.com> wrote in message
news:7lpl63ph2br1m006pmjjg49j7cpq5u3ee6@4ax.com...
> On Sat, 9 Jun 2007 22:27:22 +1200, "~misfit~"
> <misfit61nz.TakeThisOut@woohoo.com.au> wrote:
>
>
>>> The LEDs will come with both sides, so that would essentially be two.
>>> I'll only need to replace one side. There are four LEDs on each side
>>> of the case, and each set of four LEDs are connected to one wire that
>>> plugs into the 4-pin molex. This means there will be two seperate
>>> strings of LEDs.
>>
>>Yeah yeah, I got all that.
>>
>>I meant, get two lots. At that price, and with a history of failure, it
>>might be a good idea.
>
>
> $6 delivered is a great price for the set, but I'd still
> think about adding a series resistor either way, or swapping
> out the original, as 4+ ultrabright LEDs is a lot of light
> which might look cool initially but you get used to the
> effect.

Keep in mind that this case is in a bedroom, so having something that is
much brighter than it is now would not work out well. The case is already
close to being too bright for a bedroom. It already lights up the room more
than a nightlight would.
 >> Stay informed about: Case LED 

On Sat, 09 Jun 2007 19:54:12 GMT, "Travis King"
<Anonymous DeleteThis @none.com> wrote:

>"kony" <spam DeleteThis @spam.com> wrote in message
>news:7lpl63ph2br1m006pmjjg49j7cpq5u3ee6@4ax.com...
>> On Sat, 9 Jun 2007 22:27:22 +1200, "~misfit~"
>> <misfit61nz DeleteThis @woohoo.com.au> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>> The LEDs will come with both sides, so that would essentially be two.
>>>> I'll only need to replace one side. There are four LEDs on each side
>>>> of the case, and each set of four LEDs are connected to one wire that
>>>> plugs into the 4-pin molex. This means there will be two seperate
>>>> strings of LEDs.
>>>
>>>Yeah yeah, I got all that.
>>>
>>>I meant, get two lots. At that price, and with a history of failure, it
>>>might be a good idea.
>>
>>
>> $6 delivered is a great price for the set, but I'd still
>> think about adding a series resistor either way, or swapping
>> out the original, as 4+ ultrabright LEDs is a lot of light
>> which might look cool initially but you get used to the
>> effect.
>
>Keep in mind that this case is in a bedroom, so having something that is
>much brighter than it is now would not work out well. The case is already
>close to being too bright for a bedroom. It already lights up the room more
>than a nightlight would.


No, swapping in the resistor lowers the current (for longer
LED life) which would lower the brightness a bit. That is,
so long as you increase the series resistance to the LEDs
which lowers the current.
 >> Stay informed about: Case LED